Drink

More than a few great breweries have packed up their hops and faded away in recent years. But their best recipes can survive. That's exactly what happened to Perkuno's Hammer, the powerful and complex Baltic porter Tom Baker turned into a national cult beer at his small-but-mighty (and now defunct) Heavyweight Brewing Co. in Ocean Township, N.J.

Baker has plans for a Mount Airy brewpub, Earth Bread + Brewery, this spring, but Perkuno has already resurfaced as the new Baltic Thunder from Victory. Baker and cocreator Lew Bryson helped the Downingtown brewery recreate this lager on a larger scale, and the result is one moody storm in a bottle.

This dark brew swirls with intriguing shades of black licorice and roasted coffee, and a bitter-fruit high note that rings for a long and woody finish. It's not as chewy as the Heavyweight original, but that might be a good thing, because it avoids the heaviness of some creamier porters. It's downright drinkable. But with 8.5 percent alcohol, this Thunder still packs a hammer to be reckoned with.

Victory's Baltic Thunder is available at better beer stores and bars. Suggested retail price is $6.99 per 22-ounce bottle, or about $52.50 for a case of 12.

- Craig LaBan