A toast to a city of brews

By the time the new taproom opens in April at Memphis and Cumberland Streets, fresh artisan brews will be flowing through its 10 draft spigots. And the kitchen, run by a former cook from Matyson and Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, will put out homemade pierogies and vegan fare, "but also lots of other stuff with fat," said co-owner Brendan Hartranft, a longtime manager at Nodding Head in Center City. Conscious of the neighborhood clientele, he said it would all be priced to compete with an $11.50 meal at the nearby Applebee's.

"This is a chance to invest in Philly and Philly beer," he said. "We're opening the kind of place that we really want to run . . . and I find passion to be incredibly contagious."

Of course, Philly Beer Week will likely be a distant hangover by the time the Memphis opens. But this is a brew culture that is again in a state of fermentation and flux. The festivities are only the beginning of a coming-out party for Philly's new claim to fame.

"Beer Week says to America that we have a great beer scene here," said Russell. "But personally, I hope it awakens Philadelphians to the fact that we have something special right under our noses."

More Beer

Coming Thursday

A special Food section devoted to beer, includ- ing a look at the two craft beer makers that started Philadelphia's brewing renaissance, Dock Street and Yards.

For a complete listing of Philly Beer Week events, go to .