Le Virtù

From Italy's Abruzzi region, a couple brought back the makings of a fine new, authentic restaurant. And a talented chef.

March 23, 2008|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic

How many second-generation Americans have dreamed of shedding their workaday cubicle job, flying to Italy to discover long-lost family, and embarking upon an exotic new life?

The notion probably flits across a million minds each year, but few ever take the leap. Fewer still are able to actually capture the elusive culinary essence of that journey and transport those flavors safely back home.

If you've eaten at handsome Le Virtù in South Philadelphia, you'll realize that Francis Cratil and his wife, Catherine Lee, are among the lucky few. And if you've had a chance to savor the homespun Abruzzese pastas topped with lamb and duck ragus, or to nibble on deep-fried olives stuffed with braised meat, then you'll know we're the lucky ones, too. Because Le Virtù is not simply one of the most pleasant new restaurants I've visited this year; it adds yet another layer of authenticity to our already rich and growing Italian scene.

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Chef Luciana Spurio may also be the best souvenir anyone's brought back to Philly from a European jaunt in a long time.

The regional obsession here is Abruzzi, the central chunk of Italy's eastern coast that is the ancestral home of many Philadelphians. This is where Cratil reconnected with his "Cretarola" family roots, 90 years removed from grandpa Alfonso's departure to the New World. He found real cousins there, fell in love with the culture, abandoned his editorial job abstracting government statistics, moved there for months on end, and launched a career in Abruzzi tourism. Lee left her administrative post at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, as well.

Le Virtù (named for the traditional Abruzzese May soup "the Virtues") was a byproduct of their travels; the restaurant is a living scrapbook, a repository of dishes, ingredients, artwork and wines that is a delight to explore. Considering that the two had precious little restaurant experience before beginning this project in 2005, not to mention the bureaucratic, construction and visa troubles that delayed its opening for nearly two years, they've put together an impressively polished place.

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