Le Virtù

I never loved tripe until I tasted Le Virtù's. It gets poached in cleansing vinegar and bay before it's shaved into frilly-edged noodles and simmered in a bright tomato sauce tanged with parmesan rinds and lots of marjoram. Her spaghetti aglio olio is the single most dynamic simple pasta in the city, the perfectly al dente strands tossed in olive oil ringing with notes of spice - golden-fried garlic, pepper flakes, and fresh green chiles - that warm the tongue with swelling fruity heat.

A handful of dishes were less than they could be. The potato gnocchi were doughy and overly rich. The cauliflower pasta was a notch too salty with anchovy. The elaborate timballo, despite a dozen layers of crepes and tiny meatballs, was one-dimensional. And the fritto misto platter of assorted fried meats - rabbit, veal, lamb - was unexpectedly bland, the most intriguing morsel being a fried "cremini" square of custard.

Ironically, some memorable fried appetizers are part of what distinguishes this menu, from the complimentary fried dough stuffed with mozzarella and sage to the exquisitely addictive breaded olives "all'Ascolana" filled with a slow-braised trio of meats to arancini rice balls filled with ground beef ragu.

The more expensive meat and fish entrees, hovering in the mid-$20s, are less exciting than the starters and pastas, but still offer quality ingredients in straightforward ways. The rosemary-marinated rib eye crusted with bread crumbs would be a hit anywhere, as would the crispy-skinned chicken grilled to herb-infused succulence under a brick. Monkfish alla pizzaiola, scented with oregano and sauteed with capers, cherry tomatoes and olives, was one of the better monkfish dishes I've had.

My biggest disappointment was desserts. The panna cottas and lemon mousse were almost chewy with gelatin. The fudgy chocolate bonet and tiramisu were decent.

But I don't need sweets with a platter of rare organic Abruzzese sheep's-milk cheeses to explore. There were pecorinos aged with wild herbs and preserved in olive oil. Creamy ricottas came crusted in chives and hot peppers, and smoked to an ethereal tang over juniper. They're so rare, in fact, that some of these particular cheeses will not be available on a steady basis.

But that is the beauty of Le Virtù - those elusive regional flavors now at least have a satisfying spot in South Philadelphia to call home.