A wow of a Penna. wine

At the Dilworthtown Inn, wine director Stephen McKinney gave the Ameritage to his entire staff in a blind tasting.

"Some guessed Washington, others guessed Rhone," he said, "but they were quite surprised to learn it was from 7 miles away from here. They all thought it was excellent."

Though it comes with a sticker shock rarely seen from the vineyards of Pennsylvania, Chien and Waltz both believe Ameritage is priced competitively compared to second- and third-growth Bordeaux, not to mention the typical $50 Napa Valley meritage.

"It's better than your average Napa wine by a long shot," said Waltz.

"I'd argue Gino's wines are great values," said Chien.

Still, Masapollo wishes it were a shade more enticingly priced. The $85 fee for Ameritage on his list is "not experimental." As a result, Le Castagne has also begun offering it by the glass for $15 so more of the curious can get a taste.

That 6-ounce sip of Ameritage may be just what those wisecracking Pennsylvania wine cynics need.

Where to Buy

Penns Woods wines are currently sold at a handful of restaurants, including Le Castagne (1920 Chestnut St., 215-751-9913) and the Dilworthtown Inn (1390 Old Wilmington Pike, West Chester, 610-399-1390).

They are also available for sale retail by appointment only at the winery, 1010 Saville Ave., Eddystone, 610-872-5320. A public tasting room is expected to open by mid-May at the vineyard, 124 Beaver Valley Rd., Chadds Ford. For more information, go to: www.pennswoodswinery.

com.