Table Talk: Vintage owners have Time for comfort food

April 17, 2008|By Michael Klein, Inquirer Columnist

Count five days in the life of Time (1315 Sansom St., 215-985-4800), the posh "modern country-club/comfort-food" spot from Jason and Delphine Evenchik, around the corner from their wine bar/bistro Vintage.

Time came about last year when Tony Goldman, their landlord, bought the building, which at the time housed Ludwig's Garten.

Initially, they had considered opening a Vintage in another neighborhood. "But with a space this big to play with, we thought [a concept like Time] would work," Jason Evenchik says. The bar menu focuses on "brown liquors" (whiskeys, ryes, bourbons, single malts).

Chef Keith Murphy, last at Vintage, came up with a dinner menu mixing old-school specialties (cote de boeuf, venison tenderloin) and steaks (flatiron steak frites, at $17, is the cheapest entree; top price is $34 for a 16-ounce rib eye).

It's open nightly, with lunch and brunch expected in several weeks. Tonight is the grand opening, with live music.

Trading spaces

Michael O'Mara, chef-owner of M/O Cafe & Grill in Voorhees, bought San Miguel Mexican Cuisine in Washington Township a couple of months ago. Saying that the global-bistro concept works better in Washington Township and Mexican cuisine is a better fit in Voorhees, he's swapped them and lowered prices. And so: San Miguel is at 910 Haddonfield-Berlin Rd. in Voorhees (856-566-4225), and M/O is due to open tomorrow at 373 Egg Harbor Rd., Washington Township (856-582-1444).

What's coming

¡Cuba! - guess the cuisine - is looking at an April 28 opening near the top of Chestnut Hill (8609 Germantown Ave., 215-967-1477). Owners are former travel agent Miguel Castañeda, a Cuban emigre, and his son, Michael. General manager Christian Leo helped run Cuba Libre in Old City for five years. It's a cute storefront with modern decor accommodating about 30 people in the main room and about 10 more in the back. It will open as a BYOB, but they hope to obtain a liquor license. Chef Orjenia Lopez, also Cuban-born, will keep most entrees under $20. The restaurant will be open seven days for lunch and dinner, and live jazz is planned for Friday nights.

The Ho Sai Gai location at 10th and Race Streets, closed for about nine years, is less than two months from reopening after a dramatic renovation that, in a nod to the Convention Center expansion, will include a high-tech conference room on the second floor.

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