Dumpling heaven in Chinatown

The pork and chive dumplings are also stellar, smaller than the usual potstickers, but clearly handmade, like plump, oversized agnolotti. The vegetable steamed buns - cloudlike puffs of stuffed white dough known as "bao" that are different from the Shanghai steamed buns - are so popular that Guo makes the stuffing in a giant tub, standing on a box to plunge in elbow-deep and mix the shredded Shanghai cabbage, black mushrooms, and dried tofu. The triple steamed dumplings, with chive, rice noodles, egg and tiny shrimp, were even more tasty.

Dim Sum did dish some duds. Like the greasy, boring fried chicken wings that Guo insists are a variation on a true Chinese favorite. Or the dull spring roll. Or the gloppy-sauced, surprisingly bland ma po tofu over rice.

Some items that came with rice were notable, like the surprisingly great pork meatballs, rolled with crunchy water chestnuts and fresh bamboo shoots, then sauced in an intriguingly dark, sweet soy glaze. The "stewed" eel – chopped live, then wok-crisped into chunks - was shined with an intense garlic sauce. It was an acquired taste we quickly mastered as our fingers got saucy and we discovered how to pry the peppery, resilient meat from the bones with our teeth.

But in general, take the noodle option over rice, as Dim Sum Garden simply works magic with dough. You'll realize this the moment you gently lift one of those quivering hot soup dumplings from the steamer basket, the skins so delicate, but just sturdy enough not to burst.

Nip a hole and slurp the juice, for which our charming waitress finally confided the secret: pork "Jell-O" that becomes molten in the steam. Eyes snap open as the liquid rushes across our tongue, intensely savory, with a twinge of soy sweetness followed by the resonance of garlic. A dip in gingery black vinegar washes the tender meat stuffing and dumpling skin down with a bracingly tart smack. Want another? You bet!

They may no longer be the culinary rarity they were, but these Shanghai buns have found a local home in Dim Sum Garden that's still worth flocking to.