The toast (or scone) of Oak Lane

Kelly McShain Tyree, late of the New York stage, is back home, starring in Under the Oak, a family and neighborhood production getting rave reviews.

April 24, 2008|By Dianna Marder, Inquirer Staff Writer

How's this for a film plot: As the oldest of nine children, an established actress returns home to help her aging parents transition into retirement. In the process, she rediscovers her love for the old neighborhood. She moves back and opens a small cafe that becomes the heart of the community.

Kelly McShain Tyree, 40, can star in this, her life story, with her husband, Robert Tyree, 42, playing himself - the actor who puts his career on hold to become the cafe's chef.

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The part of the sidekick will be played by Devitt McShain, 37, Kelly's younger brother. He saves the day, and everyone's sense of humor, by stepping in with essential carpentry and construction skills.

See for yourself.Under the Oak, opened in 2007 at 804 Oak Lane, is open most days with the Kelly/Devitt/Robert triumvirate appearing live.

The three are there morning till night, serving La Colombe coffee and raspberry cream scones with lemon curd and creme fraiche starting at 7 a.m. Lunch and early dinner offerings such as chilled mint spring pea soup with curried shrimp and Robert's decadent chocolate cake are offered until 7 p.m.

As the cafe is small, with seating for just 20 inside and 20 more, weather permitting, outside on the patio, it's clear this is so much more than a business venture. It is a place to nurture and celebrate the neighborhood and its residents. One neighborhood woman makes the pies while high school and college students who grew up on these streets wait tables.

"Originally I wasn't planning to be a full-time cook. We were looking to hire a chef," Robert says. "But we had a particular vision of what we wanted to see here, and the only way to make it work was to do it ourselves."

Breakfast and lunch are served on vintage glass plates. Take-out orders are packed in biodegradable containers made from recycled materials.

With just a baking oven - and no grill - the cafe menu adjusts seasonally and features artisan quiches, soups, wraps and salads made from organic, local ingredients.

Prices start at $2 for a cinnamon knot with cream cheese icing to $9 for house-cured salmon on a ciabatta roll with cream cheese, tomato, arugula, red onion and capers.

A particular treat is the meat loaf, made with a mix of Lancaster County beef and veal, roasted veggies (subbing for the traditional pork in the mix), and a Worcestershire glaze, served on a brioche burger bun.

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