"I just thought it was a funny and provocative name," he says.
It is catchy, I'll admit. Even if Kelly resists the urge to go all book group on it, the restaurant is indeed riffing on regional Americana fare. And the name certainly offers us pundits a self-deprecating wink (or is it a "wick"?) at some worthy themes.
The book was a tale of Cold War culture clash when the "ugly Americans" headed to Southeast Asia. Well, there's a curious geo-cultural shift going on at Front and Federal Streets, too, as yet another red-gravy relic of old-time South Philly meets its seemingly inevitable fate: hipster gentrification.
Out with La Vigna, one of the last bastions of garlicky detente, where wiseguys and cops alike could share chicken Sicilian in furtive peace.
In with the Ugly American, where the taps flow with Walt Wit (and other local brews), the sweet biscuits are house-baked, and the crowd debates the provenance, pronunciation and proper spelling of the caraway-speckled "beef on Wick."
All in all, it's a fine improvement, as La Vigna was one nostalgia room that had long passed its prime and was ready for a scrub. But it's fascinating to see how Kelly and his chef, David Gilberg, strive to mold the restaurant into a place that feels ambitious, yet still welcoming to the locals.
Keeping prices in line has been one task, with a new menu that goes heavy on fun sandwiches and entree salads. The menu of mostly sub-$20 entrees has been whittled down by more than half to just four, with specials added for flexibility.
Our server certainly had that genuine friendly Philly-ness. Where else can a waiter expound upon the fine points of beef butchery, his position against the Barnes Foundation move, his high school and art school pedigrees, slip us his Jersey Shore Realtor's card, mention his contacts in the local porno biz, and offer solid cabernet recommendations all in one visit? (Did he just name-drop Ginger Lynn?)
