Jasper

DiFonzo brought an occasional Asian fusion touch to a largely Euro-influenced menu, but he carried it off, especially with the big scallops in a mango-pickled ginger essence that had just the right balance of exotic fruit and tingly spice.

DiFonzo also did a decent job with desserts, which went a half-step beyond most chef-baked pastries, including cinnamon-spiced crepes wrapped around rich mocha creme, a martini of strawberries and ladyfingers tossed in chantilly cream, a tiramisu bombe, and a buttery puff pastry tart topped with apples and golden raisins. There are also the tried-and-true creme brulee and chocolate lava cake, which were as predictable as the salmon and filet mignon.

A little more kitchen help, of course, might allow for some more interesting desserts. It might also unlock Jasper's potential to grow and improve upon its fine start (and even change the lightbulbs!). DiFonzo has advertised in the local daily for experienced help, but after a month, no qualified candidates have turned up: "Everybody thinks he's a chef," he says, sighing.

And so it's back to DIY for this promising BYO.