But first, she had to make her case, because Marigold Kitchen was in danger of ceasing to exist.
At least, that was one possibility being considered by Cook, who made his name at Marigold, first as a chef, then as an owner, ceding the kitchen to Solomonov's rising star. Making a profit had become increasingly difficult in the tight-margin world of even the city's best BYO's. And as Cook and Solomonov focused on the larger project of Zahav, all options were on the table.
But could New Southern cooking fly in Philadelphia? This town without a twang of Dixie funk in its city limits? Corn bread and country ham and sweetly brined pork chops with collards and raisin vinaigrette are certainly drastic departures from the contemporary Israeli flavors that marked Marigold's previous menus.
But O'Shea's impressive debut in her first months as a head chef is a reaffirmation. It reinforces Marigold's continued standing as one of our most intriguing kitchens. And the mercurial ease with which this 40-seat destination has drastically changed its culinary personality (now for the second time) is a vivid reminder why the intimate Philadelphia BYOB - as a genre - remains the purest stage for an emerging chef to make her creative voice heard.
Whether many folks are hearing it is the question. There was hardly a soul in the dining room during my final mid-week meal, even though Marigold's new menu has dropped its entree prices by nearly $10, to mostly under $20, in an effort to bring the neighborhood crowd back.
With so many distractions from a vibrant restaurant scene, it's harder for the old standbys. But O'Shea's food is among the most interesting I've eaten all year, and she deserves as much notice as any new chef.
