Marigold Kitchen

The red snapper over basmati rice swirled with carrot juice and mesquite-smoked fish fumet was another stellar example of vivid flavors drawn from an elegantly light dish.

I had precious few complaints about O'Shea's menu, or the service, which was pleasantly casual but well-informed, and graceful around the table, bringing fresh rounds of fine stemware no matter how much wine we opened.

And my guest uncorked some sweet treasures (like a 40-year-old Calvados) as we shifted focus to the excellent farmstead cheeseplate, and some catchy desserts, like the Egyptian rice pudding, and the glazed chocoate cake with a malted milk shooter. But I especially adored the apple tart, because O'Shea had slipped between the minced warm apples and buttery crust the most unexpected and delicate crackle of peanut brittle - a sweet nut hum that lingered long after the tart was gone.

With such promising new flavors now flowing from the kitchen, Steven Cook might at last consider doing something more with Marigold's dining room, which feels like a Victorian parlor stripped down to the austere minimum. Perhaps a little warm lighting is all that's needed to suit this old classic's new Southern outlook. Because Erin O'Shea, thankfully, isn't planning on leaving Marigold anytime soon.

Next Sunday, restaurant critic Craig LaBan reviews Sonam on South Street. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.