Likewise, a simple grilled filet mignon with classic Bordelaise gravy spoke for itself, as did the perfectly roasted chicken breast, all crispy skin and moist meat. Both came with a textbook gratin dauphinoise - a layered square of thinly sliced potatoes roasted in cream and cheese, set on its side like a heat-crisped deck of cards.
On their own, these understated dishes are pleasant enough, and fairly priced for the quality. In the context of Fanari's four-course prix-fixe menu option, though, it is one of the best French bargains around. And the salad course is more than just throwaway mixed greens. One came with sweet gorgonzola, walnuts and pears; the other propped an irresistible wedge of oozy, almond-crusted brie over fresh greens and apples.