Discreet Diner: High Street Grill a memorable site

I remember sitting in Florence's Piazza della Signoria, an empty paper cup in my hand, carefully counting my lire. Did I have enough for just one more gelato?

When others recall their college-age discoveries of Europe, I usually stay silent. Saying "gelati" might freeze up the conversation.

Same for proscuitto, baguette, Croque-monsieur or brie.

But a few thousand well-prepared plates later, when I taste something and think, "I'm going to remember this," my frequent dining partner can see the memories in my slow-growing smile.

It was with such a smile that I stole my second, larger bite of wild mushroom and beef strudel ($10) recently at the High Street Grill in Mount Holly, owned by John and Nancy McDevitt. Much of the strudel's generous dollop of blue cheese cream sauce already had been lapped up.

The meal in the elegant, yet comfortable, upstairs dining room had started well, accompanied by a predictable mix of Billy Joel, Elton John and Broadway tunes from piano man Ed Robertson.

Our server had actually heard of my favorite India Pale Ale, Ruination, and suggested he knew an even tastier choice. "A better IPA?" I wondered, suspecting that Dave had broken his lashings. But as I took my first sip, I realized that although Loose Cannon didn't fit my profile beer-wise, Dave had not made an outlandish claim. Another discovery!

Unfortunately, the beer came because the bar was out of champagne splits. Note to barkeep: Serving Belgian mussels ($8) this succulent without a decent bubbly on hand is just short of sinful.

The grilled asparagus salad ($10) tasted like summer - light, fresh, zesty with lemon and contrasted in red pepper. But it was in need of a dash of salt.

More daring was the chilled potato chipotle soup ($5.95) topped with fresh lime juice and tomato salsa - one of chef John McDevitt's specialty vegetarian soups of the day.

Then, after the IPA and creative small bites, the unexpected happened: The shock of sloppiness next to meticulousness, perhaps attributable to our late-night arrival. It came on our mixed grill of baby quail, beef filet and rack of lamb, ordered rare ($30). Only a worshipper trying to appease an angry god could have appreciated the charred sheep.

Still, the restaurant responded with appropriate contrition when I did what any cool-center-loving carnivore should do: Sent back the burnt offering. Just after we finished the tender filet and tiny, tasty bird, two carefully plated chops appeared, perfectly cooked with ample, freshly made Cabernet butter sauce.

In the end, all was forgotten as our forks jousted over a warm chocolate cake ($6) dusted in powdered sugar with a molten center.

Confronted with the High Street Grill menu, it's hard to make a choice. But once you do, it's likely to make a memory.

Discreet Diner: High Street Grill

64 High St., Mount Holly.

609-265-9199.

Summer hours: 11:30 a..m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5:30-10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Tavern menu later.

Parking: On street, municipal lot nearby.

Reservations: Yes.

Cocktails: Yes.

Children's menu: By request.

Handicapped-accessible: Lower level.

On the Web: www.highstreetgrill.net.