GoodTaste

July 17, 2008

The cone brothers

For lunch in the buttoned-down dining room at Table 31, you can have an exquisite chopped salad (that could benefit from brighter dressing), or a "Maine lobster roll," lobster salad served sadly on a round brioche roll, not the traditional, grilled New England split-top hotdog bun. But tradition is tweaked with happier result in the dessert trio of mini-ice cream cones - crisp, rolled, house-made tuile cookies redolent of crushed almond or raspberry. Daily ice creams include an intense burnt-sugar caramel you can dip in a side of hot chocolate sauce. Or try coconut sorbet. Luscious! Or the watermelon, a stunningly refreshing riff on the original.

Sorbet or Ice Cream Trio, $9, Table 31, Comcast Center, 17th St. and JFK Blvd., 215-567-7111, www.table-31.com.

- Rick Nichols

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