Time

In the old Ludwig's Garden space, there are a beer bar, an updated chop house, and an absinthe lounge, all under one roof. The sum of the parts? A pretty nice threesome.

July 20, 2008|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 3 of 3)

Given those seafood missteps, Murphy turned out a very respectable crab cake, moist and cleverly sparked with a garnish of pickled jalapeños. A salmon Wellington was another retro surprise, with layers of moist pink fish, tangy tomato and spinach encased in a flaky puff pastry hot pocket over lemongrass cream.

Time also turned out a trio of appealingly whiskeyed updates to some classic American desserts - a rich bourbon pecan pie with butterscotch ice cream; a brownie sundae with whiskey sabayon; and a banana split terrine layered with chocolate ganache, peanut butter and banana mousses with bourbon-soaked cherries.

Story continues below.

With the cafe windows flung wide open onto Time's dining room lounge, the jazz trio cooking in the corner, and my belly full of good red meat, I can see the appeal. Another infusion of ice water in the old absinthe fountain might be in order.

 


Next Sunday, restaurant critic Craig LaBan reviews Les Bons Temps in Center City.

Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.

 

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