Dining's big new wave

September 07, 2008|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Slow economy? You wouldn't know it by the openings lighting up the local dining scene, going through its biggest growth spurt in recent memory. And we mean "big," from the mega-size of these new restaurants to the hefty checks and the big names behind them. Upscale ethnic eateries, power steak houses, ambitious pizza bars, and bold new places for the suburbs have also changed the eating landscape dramatically. Rick Nichols offers a primer to catch you up on hot spots you might have missed this summer. Craig LaBan, meanwhile, looks hungrily toward some highlights still to be tasted this fall.



Mexican Revolution

In less than a decade, our Mexican scene has gone from mild to blazing-hot, with everything from authentic taquerias to nuevo tamale tastings. The high end gets even spicier now with four new entries, including the sprawling Distrito in University City, the riotously playful ode to Mexico City from Jose Garces, who created the menu at El Vez before he became the city's tapas king. Competition for those stylish taco dollars will come from two spots in Northern Liberties, where Cantina Dos Segundos is a new sibling to the South Philly Mexi-gastropub, Cantina Los Caballitos, and the Bar Ferdinand crew is about to launch a "border bar," El Camino Real, serving tacos and Texas barbecue in the former Deuce. In the Italian Market, meanwhile, relatives of the chef at Xochitl have stoked a growing buzz for their polished takes on traditional fare at Paxia, which replaced Molcajete Mixto. Talk about a combo platter of choices!
Distrito, 3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-1657; Paxia, 746 Christian St., 215-413-0171; Cantina Dos Segundos, 931 N. Second St. 215-629-0500; El Camino Real, 1040 N. Second St.

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Starring in A.C.

There's still a jackpot of cash fueling new restaurant projects in Atlantic City - ever hopeful of channeling Vegas' dining mojo to the East Coast. The Borgata's $8 million transformation of Suilan into sultry Izakaya may be one of its best bets to get lucky. It's a sake-splashed coming-out for owner-chef Michael Schulson, a longtime former Stephen Starr talent who opened Pod and Manhattan's Buddakan. He's offering a high-style take on Japanese pub fare, with miso-glazed lobster roasting over a wood-fired robatayaki grill, sushi from an ex-Morimoto hand, and 25 sakes by the glass.

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