Table Talk: Melograno relocates; Mémé takes old spot

Melograno's neighbors near Fitler Square moaned earlier this year when they learned that Rosemarie Tran and Gianluca Demontis' lease would not be renewed at 22d and Spruce Streets. Their tiny but airy Italian BYOB had drawn a following in its nearly five years.

Melograno just resurfaced five blocks away, at 2012 Sansom St. (215-875-8116), and, as Tran said last week, they're starting to view the move as a blessing in disguise. The new space may be midblock, but it's twice the size (80-ish seats) and a touch cozier; the lower ceilings dampen the dinner din. The Rome-raised Demontis still has an open kitchen for his Tuscan/Umbrian/Roman cuisine (no major changes from the old spot; entrees top out in the high $20s). Family photos line the walls, and check out the teeny-weeney Vespa scooter, which the couple got from an antique carousel in Italy. Melograno is open for dinner Tuesdays through Sundays.

In that charmed corner at 22d and Spruce, Melograno's successor is the days-old Mémé (2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900), a lively 40-seater from chef David Katz, who gained notice at the now-closed Restaurant M near Washington Square after working at Salt and Pollo Rosso.

Look up above the Spruce Street window at the chalkboard menu, broken into "small-ish" and "larg-er" plates, as well as several dishes aimed for two. It's BYOB until the liquor license arrives (probably not before January); he'll focus on beers and estate-bottled wines. Katz is positioning Mémé - that's what he called his Moroccan grandmother, pronounced "may-may" - as a drop-in place with a $40-a-head check average. (By drop-in: He'll take reservations for half the dining room.)

Among dishes on the seasonal menu: sauteed skate with tapenade; lamb leg with ratatouille; sizzling mussels; and beef tartare with salty chips. The sous chef from M, Jonathan Petruce, and his brother, Justin, who relocated from Chicago, are working alongside Katz.

It's open for dinner nightly except for Tuesdays. There's also Sunday brunch. Well-thought-out Web site, too: www.memerestaurant.com.

What's new

Kaizan, which lasted a Philly minute in the Academy House (1420 Locust St., 215-735-1144), has been reconceptualized as Sakeya, an izakaya (Japanese bar). Owner Jonathan Chun has brought in Barbra Hur as general manager. Atmosphere is dark and sexy. Menu includes maki, sushi, salads, noodles, donburi and tempura - all small-plates. Beverage list includes 10 sakes and several Japanese beers. It's open nightly.