Table Talk: New gastropub at CityView

Posted: October 16, 2008

A tied house, in the traditional sense, is a pub that buys its beer exclusively from one brewery.

The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board does not allow them. When father-and-son William and Chris Leonard of the General Lafayette Inn, a Lafayette Hill brewpub, sought to open such a gastropub downtown, they relied on William's wife, Rose, and son Jonathan to obtain the restaurant license.

So that's why the General Lafayette and the cozy Tiedhouse - which opened last week in the ground floor of the CityView Condos near the Art Museum (2001 Hamilton St., 215-561-1002) - are separate operations. (Why didn't they just call it "the Loophole?")

The Tiedhouse has modeled the beer selection and style of service after the General Lafayette, says Chris Leonard, who explains that 80 percent of the Tiedhouse beer list is from the General Lafayette. It includes "Tiedhouse lager," an amber beer produced exclusively for the Tiedhouse, plus 10 other bottled beers, such as Ayinger Brau-weisse, Lost Abbey Judgment Day, and Elysian Nite Owl Pumpkin.

Imaginative, international-style small plates (such as Mexican-style meatballs, duck confit tostada) share the billing with salads, sandwiches, and more substantial offerings such as chicken paillard and roasted salmon puttanesca. Top price is $15. It's open daily from 4:30 p.m.

New in South Philly

The Witch (1401 E. Moyamensing Ave., 215-462-1200), an American bistro whose publicity-shy chef last worked at Django, has filled the Pennsport corner left by Peppercorns. Entrees are $14 and $22, and there's a liquor license. Owners are Dean Ward of Conley Ward in Wilmington and Peppercorns' Danny Gallagher. It's open from 5 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays, plus Sunday brunch. The name has nothing to do with the current season. Ward and Gallagher first met in 1989 at the airport on their way to a golf outing at The Witch of Myrtle Beach in South Carolina.

Izumi (1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-1222), which means "fountain" (after the one across the street), is a sharp-looking modern Japanese BYOB at Passyunk and Tasker from Lynn Rinaldi, who owns Paradiso down the block. (Check out the sushi bar underlit with changing LEDs that cast a glow onto the bar stools.) Menu includes sushi/sashimi/maki, small plates and large plates (in addition to sushi and sashimi samplers for $15, $25 and $50, there are soy-glazed baby backs for $18 and pan-seared chicken teriyaki for $18). Hours are 4 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, till 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and 3 to 9 p.m. Sundays.

Briefly noted

Coming to 1328 Pine St. (the former Valentino) in a few weeks is Giorgio on Pine, a BYOB trattoria from Giorgio Giuliani, formerly of Monte Carlo Living Room and the Ristorante Primaveras.

South Jersey Restaurant Week (four-course dinners for $35) is Sunday through Oct. 24. List: www.sjhotchefs.com.

Mad River, the New York-based bar/grille with a spot in Old City, is awaiting permits for its Manayunk location at the former Grape Street (4100 Main St.)

Cake, the homey bakery in Chestnut Hill, now serves dinner Thursdays and Fridays, with an American bistro menu whose entrée prices top out at $22.


Contact columnist Michael Klein at 215-854-5514 or mklein@phillynews.com. For restaurant news served when you want it, see "The Insider" at http://go.philly.com/insider.

comments powered by Disqus
|
|
|
|
|