But when the chuckles subsided, beer fans noticed that Bubba had swept the category: Gold went to Fredericksburg Brewing in central Texas and bronze was awarded to Chama River Brewing, of New Mexico.
"The craft brewing bar has been raised," Covaleski said. "We're starting to see breweries delve into styles they wouldn't normally pursue."
Mark Edelson, head of brewing operations at the suburban Iron Hill brewpub chain, had the same reaction: "Craft brewing is getting better everywhere. We're seeing breweries step out of their comfort zone."
There was evidence of the trend across the vast convention center floor where 46,000 beer drinkers sipped more than 2,000 different brews:
_ Firestone Walker, a renowned California ale brewery that dominated the pale ale categories, also won a medal with a malty Vienna-style lager.
_ Bear Republic, known mainly for its hoppy ales and meaty stouts, won a bronze for its clear Bohemian-style pilsner and another for an easy-drinking amber lager.
_ Alaskan Brewing, whose rep was earned with its "manly" porters and bitters, won silver for its "girly" raspberry wheat.
_ Locally, Stewart's Brewing in Bear, Del., known mainly for beefy lagers and strong ales, won gold for its delicate kolsch.
Some things don't change:
_ Pennsylvania dominated with its German-style pilsners (Penn Kaiser took gold, Victory Prima Pils got bronze).
_ Iron Hill, which has excelled with its lambics, won two more with its Lambic de Hill and Cassis de Hill.
_ Dogfish Head, known for unique (OK, bizarre) varieties, hit the trifecta with medals for its unclassifiable Pangaea, Palo Santo Marron and Red & White ales.
_ And, as usual, I "sampled" too much.
The Philadelphia area had its best showing, with 17 medals. Iron Hill brought home six of them, giving the seven-pub chain 27 total GABF medals, the most for any local brewery (Stoudt's, with one brewery, has 26). (You can see the list of locals at my Web site, www.joesixpack.net.)
