Northbrook MarketPlace

It was also clear at my second dinner, when serving plates hot was not an issue, that the culinary concepts on these constantly changing menus are not equally fleshed out. A glass platter smeared with tangy pickled-beet puree topped with ribbons of deeply smoked salmon, shaved raw artichokes, snappy almonds, and bitter frisee lettuce was a masterpiece of contrasting textures and layered flavors. But a big ravioli filled with a chunk of sea bass, while an elegant idea, was too awkward to eat beneath the overly rich squash soup poured on top. A seared shrimp with spicy romesco sauce, likewise, needed something less creamy than the thick Alfredo-sauced angel hair pasta that came beneath.

Even Northbrook's busy smokehouse, so well used for the spectacular citrus-cured salmon and brisket, still needs fine-tuning. The applewood smoke didn't penetrate quite deeply enough into the ribs and tender pulled pork served in the cafe by day. The barbecue sauce, too, should be less gummy with thickeners. And the market's grocery aisles can still be significantly upgraded.

Without a doubt, Northbrook has a way to go before it competes on the lofty level of Talula's, with which comparisons are bound to be made. And yet, there is already so much to be excited about in this ambitious new venture. Whether pausing a bike ride for hot doughnuts, a brisket sandwich, and a fresh pumpkin whoopie pie or settling in for a sophisticated Chef's Table tasting, it's clearly a special addition to the West Chester scene - with the added element of spontaneous tablemates.

Our Friday meal, it turns out, took a surprise turn for the magical around midnight. As we spooned through Italian plum financiers and chocolate-pear bread puddings, Roy's vintage guitar suddenly appeared for an impromptu birthday serenade. And before we knew it, he and Gardot were treating us to a mini-concert. Strangers just a few hours earlier, this well-fed group had become an audience of new friends, totally rapt as the two voices bounded off the old planks of this 1850s barn, up and out into the starry West Chester night.