And he revived the age-old tradition of Christmas beer with this beautifully simple spiced (spruce, cinnamon) ale. We wouldn't be enjoying most of the beers below if it weren't for him.
Sierra Nevada Celebration. I know that some hopheads shrug off this beer as passé, saying that it's been surpassed by double India pale ales and other hop bombs. But for me, the appearance of Sierra Nevada's red and green cases is the first true sign of Christmas. Celebration is sublimely balanced, its Cascades and Centennial hops a firm but gentle partner - not a bully - to its rich malt body.
Samichlaus. Now brewed in Austria by Castle Eggenberg, this beer was almost lost several years ago during corporate reshuffling by its previous brewer. An Internet campaign sparked by British beer writer Michael Jackson saved one of the world's strongest lagers, at 14 percent alcohol. This rich, brandylike brew ages exceptionally well; enjoy it in a snifter by a roaring fire.
Corsendonk. There are other holiday beers from Belgium that you could call "classic." Stille Nacht, Scaldis Noel and Affligem Noel come to mind. But in the last two years, this abbey-style ale has come to define the type: dark, rich, with a chocolate aroma and complex fruit flavors. Try to track it down on tap - it's stellar.
Samuel Smith's Winter Welcome. Stacked up against the bold, spicy character of other Christmas beers, this simple ale is too easy to pass by. But pour it into a British pint glass, let it reach a suitable temperature of 50 degrees and then quaff it like you're in a London pub.
