In the Market for the fare of Mexico? Moctezuma combines regional with cosmopolitan

December 12, 2008|By LARI ROBLING, For the Daily News
  • Manager Andres Hernandez with the house speciality, Chicken Moctezuma.

THIS TIME OF year it's easy to work up an appetite standing in line in the Italian Market. One of the options for an inexpensive recharge is one block south of Washington on 9th Street at Moctezuma Restaurant. Here you'll find a pick-me-up gordita, quick Mexican sandwich or leisurely dinner.

Yes, Moctezuma is an unfortunate name for some of us who may have bad south of the border vacation memories. Put those aside, though. Owned by the familia Hernandez, Moctezuma is an expression of their Mexican cuisine and ancient culture. Moctezuma was the last emperor of the Aztec civilization, which was perhaps best known for its remarkable calendar stone and reverence of the sun.

Story continues below.

You will, however, have a clash of modernity with the homage to antiquity. A large mural depicting Aztec mythology contrasts with the loud flat-screen TV airing the improbable plotlines of Latin soaps. And the walls of the 14-month-old establishment definitely need a little paint touch-up.

But, it's easy to overlook those flaws when you speak with manager Andres Hernandez. The menu proudly proclaims "one hundred percent" Mexican food.

He is passionately committed to promoting his heritage growing up in the region of Puebla. He also infuses the menu with dishes from cosmopolitan Mexico City.

Moctezuma does more lunch business during Market hours. You'll find plenty of tortas (sandwiches), tortillas and tacos to fit that bill. But the dinners really showcase what Hernandez is trying to accomplish.

A good sign of that "one hundred percent" claim was when the complimentary homemade red and green sauce with fried tortilla chips arrived at the table. Both were delicious and so addictive it was difficult to attend to menu selections.

We began sharing a few dishes with the table. Beef Gordita ($5) was a large round made with fried corn dough made with masa harina and stuffed with shreds of seasoned beef. An eminently shareable snack.

An order of quesadillas ($8) provides a choice of three. The tortillas for the quesadillas are made in-house and it shows in the texture.

The favorite of the table was the squash flower with cheese. If you are a fan of stuffed Italian zucchini blossoms, you'll enjoy the similarity. The carnivores at the table liked the beef quesadilla; however, the vegetarians found the mushrooms with cheese a little bland.

1 | 2 | Next »
|
|
|
|
|