But those hankering for a throwback to the powdered schmaltz, saffron gels and almond foams of his past might be in for a letdown. There isn't a speck of tapioca-maltodextrin in this pantry. There isn't even a sous-vide machine or a liquid nitrogen station. (Imagine: just pots and pans, a fryer, and a regular old stove!)
But as McDonald turns from futuristic Spain to rustic Britain for his menu inspiration, with "white fish roll mops," "pork scratchings" and "mushy peas," what some might perceive as a step down into pub fare may, in fact, turn out to be the best opportunity of his young career.
Pub & Kitchen's straightforward ambition, simply to serve good food in a neighborhood bar, is a chance for this Brasserie Perrier alumnus to prove that his culinary talents hinge more on true instincts and fundamentals than on novel combinations and gimmicky techniques.
And I've tasted more than a few plates of evidence that McDonald is the real deal, from his mastery of the beer batter to the house-cured bacon that gives his burger luster, to what might be the best gnocchi in town, those airy Parisian choux dumplings tossed with wilted radicchio and herbed mascarpone. His bar snacks show a knack for giving a creative spin to good ingredients, whether it's a silky duck liver pâté, fresh chips dusted with vinegar powder, or blue cheese with caramelized Guinness.
The white fish "roll mops," pickled pollack bits tossed with dilled sour cream and diced apples atop little toasts, are the among best beer-inducing morsels I've nibbled all year. The goat cheese pierogi with arugula-beet salad was a nice dumpling twist on a classic flavor trio.
