Big doings on the dining scene

The mega-restaurant and the return of the French bistro were among the trends of 2008.

December 28, 2008|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
(Page 9 of 13)

An aging corner taproom has been transformed into a hip gastropub and craft-beer bar that could become a magnet for Kensington's gentrification. The updated regional pub fare (fried pickles, rarebit, Polish platter) balances ambition and fresh ingredients with moderate prices. The serious beer list is destination-worthy. Reviewed Aug. 3.

1326 Spruce St., 215-546-2355

Former Sushikazu owner Bruce Kim has brought his crunchy-spicy sushi rolls and classic, deftly cooked Japanese fare to a comfy room just steps from the Avenue of the Arts. The space is somewhat obscure, but worth seeking out for a flavorful and reasonably priced theater-district meal. This is easily one of the most solid of Center City's myriad sushi newcomers. Reviewed May 4.

Story continues below.

2015 E. Moyamensing Ave., 215-271-7177; www.nicholasphilly.com

Two guys named Nick have brought a fresh taste of New American cooking to Italian-rich South Philly in this lively little Pennsport BYOB. The chefs are both alums of Striped Bass and Morimoto, but opt for considerably simpler dishes here (sometimes too simple), with a focus on seasonal ingredients and affordable prices targeted more to a neighborhood crowd than destination diners. Desserts still need lots of work. Reviewed Oct. 12.

1805 Unionville-Wawaset Rd.,

West Chester, 610-793-1210; www.northbrookmarketplace.com

This classic Chester County barn-market for doughnuts and pumpkins has morphed into a more ambitious gastro-destination under new ownership, with house-smoked barbecue at the casual market by day and elaborate tasting menus for private parties at a 22-seat chef's table by night. There's still room for polish from chef-owners Guillermo Tellez and Rob Boone, both alums of Charlie Trotter's and Striped Bass, but they've shown flashes of promise at the tastings, which make for an intimate fine-dining event. Reviewed Nov. 2.

227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262; www.parc-restaurant.com

Stephen Starr has created a stunning vision of Paris on Rittenhouse Square in this vast re-creation of a vintage brasserie that feels French down to the smoked mirrors. It's one of the biggest restaurant spectacles of the last decade, but also a victim of its runaway success, with an ear-splitting noise problem (at night) and a kitchen that sometimes struggles to consistently serve its polished bistro fare hot to more than 1,000 diners a day. There has been a change of chef since the review. Reviewed Oct. 26.

1904 Chestnut St., 215-564-9090; www.pearlphilly.com

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