Melograno

There was always a pinch of magic to the pancetta-scented air inside the old Melograno. With little more than 34 seats, an open kitchen, and a bare-white decor, that bright corner room became one of the city's best trattorias and a jam-packed emblem of the BYOB revolution.

But Melograno's owners, chef Gianluca Demontis and his wife, Rosemarie Tran, encountered the same fate that confronted so many other early BYO pioneers, many of whom have since sold out, expanded or acquired liquor licenses: These tiny dining-room stages simply weren't built for longevity.

An imminent rent increase curtailed Melograno's cozy run at 22d and Spruce, obliging the search for a bigger space. But would the subsequent move to a double-sized room several blocks from the old haunt spoil the simple magic that charmed its early success?

After a couple of fabulous meals ranging from the unusual (earthy snail-and-porcini soup) to refined classics (gutsy pasta all'Amatriciana with homemade pancetta), the answer is an emphatic no.

Not only has Melograno managed to mantain its golden touch with authentic trattoria fare, it has also been able to translate the conviviality of its neighborhood nook to a larger, more urban space. It's still a casual BYO, with reasonable prices and unpretentious (albeit well-informed and efficient) service. But it also feels a little more grown-up on many levels.

Set into the middle of the 2000 block of Sansom Street, the long, butter-colored dining room hums with city energy, its center wall pierced by arches that open toward the back on Demontis' open kitchen. There's a rustic feeling to the weathered floor and whitewashed wainscoting. And a variety of seating areas, from the (slightly) quieter front tables to the comfy banquette that runs beneath vintage photos of Demontis' family trattoria in Rome, to the large hammered-copper round tables near the kitchen that have a familial feel, lend the space both bustle and intimacy.

Ultimately, though, it is Demontis' native Roman touch behind the stove that gives Melograno its continued luster. He's kept all the dishes that made the restaurant a hit to begin with, from the silky ribbons of house-made pappardelle cloaked in truffled walnuts and mushrooms to the bistecca alla Fiorentina, a juicy grilled T-bone served hot over cool white beans infused with sage and garlic.