Mom-daughter duo stirs culinary zing, creole style, in Chestnut Hill

January 22, 2009|By APRIL LISANTE, For the Daily News
  • Brown seasons a Creole dish at Soul; her interest in the cuisine stems from her family roots in Louisiana.

IT IS SMALL and unassuming, a cheerful, cozy nook with only nine tables and a tight kitchen.

But to mother-daughter owners Angie Brown and Samantha Johnson, their new BYOB on Germantown Avenue in Chestnut Hill is a big place with a whole lot of soul.

That's one one reason why they call their joint venture Soul. The modern, Creole-style restaurant serves up "food for the soul," according to Brown. Giant plates of rice and beans nestled against classic Southern comfort foods, from jambalaya to crab cakes, baked oysters and pork chops.

But this venture has soul for another reason, too: It has been the lifelong dream of both mother and daughter to work together in the restaurant business.

Brown, 54, a Chestnut Hill native, has a long history with Philadelphia food as a caterer, restaurant owner and corporate chef. But there was always something missing, she reflected recently.

She yearned for something more intimate where she could focus on her passion for Creole food, born of her family roots in Louisiana.

Johnson, 24, is a focused, driven Temple film studies grad who was Miss Pennsylvania in 2007. She has aspirations of acting - and going to graduate school for a business degree - but would rather work with Mom.

Last fall, the stars aligned when the pair found a small space in a rowhouse basement on tony Germantown Avenue. Chestnut Hill's main shopping artery is clogged with antiques shops, art galleries and specialty stores, along with a handful of restaurants, many of which have moved toward American pub-style fare.

It seemed the Hill was ready for a breath of fresh air.

Soul opened in late October, and by early December, the duo was stunned when Soul landed a Zagat rating and the Zagat Guide's coveted "best new restaurant in Philly" award, as well as a glowing review from the local Chestnut Hill newspaper.

"We were so happy," said Brown, a super-energetic blonde who bubbles as she talks. "It was like, after less than two months, it was a sign we'd done the right thing."

"In college [for a course], I'd done plans for a restaurant. I'd always wanted one," said Johnson. "I grew up in restaurants. It's always been an ambition of mine."

A lifelong love of food

Brown was born and raised in Mount Airy and Chestnut Hill.

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