Mom-daughter duo stirs culinary zing, creole style, in Chestnut Hill

January 22, 2009|By APRIL LISANTE, For the Daily News
(Page 3 of 3)

Brown also felt it was the right thing to do given that at the time, her husband was sick, and her daughter had just won Miss Pennsylvania 2007, a crown that came with a lot of responsibilities.

Johnson - then a server at various local restaurants, including Steven Starr's new Parc - had entered the contest to boost her profile in the acting world.

She won with an impressive platform promoting a foundation she had established a few years ago, Republic of Promise, which she hopes will one day bring education to children of war-torn Liberia.

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"I was in Liberia in college, and I am truly passionate about trying to connect children there with creative arts and an agricultural program," she said.

A life-changing moment

Brown may have taken a break from the food industry, but she was still stewing over what to do. Until one day this past fall, when she literally woke up and looked out the window of her Germantown Avenue home to see a "For Rent" sign on the rowhouse directly across the street.

"Sometimes God puts something at your feet," she said.

Added Johnson, "I knew . . . this was the thing to do."

The pair transformed the bottom floor into a jewel box of black-damask-swathed chairs and banquets, with white linen tablecloths.

Chandeliers drip beads and New Orleans-inspired fleur-de-lis ornaments. Nine tables seat only 26 people total. A chalkboard painted back wall alerts diners of the evening's specials.

Brown and Johnson know they face stiff competition.

Chestnut Hill has stalwart bistro-style favorites like the Chestnut Hill Hotel's Chestnut Grill & Sidewalk Cafe, the Solaris Grill and the Tavern on the Hill, that draw loyal crowds.

But recently, fresh new additions - from Persian to Cuban - have popped up on Germantown Avenue, giving Soul's owners hope that their venue has arrived at the right time.

"My wife and I would always go to the Chestnut Grill or Solaris," said Soul devotee Richard Leps. "One night we walked the whole street and found Soul and looked at the menu and said, 'It looks intimate,' and it was out of this world."

Living the dream

Tuesday through Saturday nights, Brown's in the kitchen, a small galley with a single gas stove, microwave and refrigerator.

Johnson works as the hostess and server. She also does all the morning runs for fresh ingredients from South Philly's Food Distribution Center.

Johnson still dreams of a career as an actress. Brown still dreams of being a stylist - only now, she's dreaming about creating a clothing line for female chefs.

But most importantly, they're dreaming everything together.

"Now, I walk across the street every day," said Brown, "walk through the front door and walk into my heart." *

Soul, 8136 Germantown Ave., 215-248-8800. Open for dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; dessert served till 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Menu prices range from $5 to $23. BYOB, cash only.

E-mail April Lisante at

lisanta@phillynews.com.

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