Enhancing a basic bean soup

In winter, I favor one-pot soups, the kind you might find while traveling through the countryside of Italy or France: unfussy combinations of beans, coarsely cut vegetables, and herbs, whose rich flavors and abundant texture coalesce into something akin to a stew. They provide a kind of comfort and nourishment found in no other food.

I find myself returning often to a simple strategy for a basic bean soup that is delicious as is, but even better as the base for further embellishments: a white bean soup infused with thyme and rosemary, served with a variety of accompaniments that can be spooned into the center of each serving.

These include leafy greens sauteed in olive oil with lots of garlic; Sweet Pepper and Onion Confit (see recipe); sauteed wild mushrooms; or some leftover braised meat that's been shredded and warmed.

Even easier is a drizzle of fine olive oil and shavings of aged cheese, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano or Spanish Manchego.

The basic method is easy, and you can improvise by using different kinds of broths or combinations of herbs, or ham to give a smoky flavor. Any of these soups can be pureed for a creamy consistency.

Generally speaking, I find that white bean soups combine well with many kinds of flavorings and garnishes, and that they provide a visual contrast as well.

But you can tailor your embellishments to the bean, for example, using cumin and smoky ham to flavor a black bean soup garnished with sour cream and cilantro, or sweet pepper and onion confit spiked with ancho chile powder.

Brown and pinto beans have affinities for shredded, long-cooked pork, small cubes of bread pan-fried until golden in olive oil with a bruised clove of garlic, and crisp diced bacon or pancetta.

The other great virtue of this Essential Bean Soup (see recipe) is that it will keep about five days refrigerated and can be frozen without the garnishes for up to three months.

If you don't have time to soak the beans overnight, cook them longer (at least an hour), adding water as necessary to keep them covered with liquid.

Essential Bean Soup

Makes 8 servings

2 ounces pancetta or bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 1/2 cups dried beans, such as baby limas, navy, cannellini, pinto, soaked overnight in water to cover by 2 inches

6 to 8 cups low-sodium or homemade chicken broth 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 imported bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon sugar