It's nice to share

The just-for-two portions popping up in restaurants maximize flavor as well as intimacy.

February 05, 2009|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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  • Food of love: Fernando Vincenti plates the branzino tableside at Roberto Cafe, which has made a specialty of presenting whole fish.

I usually have an aversion to going out for Valentine's Day. If the crowds alone don't squash the romance, the typically overpriced prefab special menus and harried service will.

"In the biz, we call it 'Amateur Night,' " one chef conceded.

So why not celebrate alt-Valentine's, dinner out on a night other than V-day, by indulging in a growing menu trend already built for an intimate evening of fork-à-fork: the sharing-sized portion.

Consider it a zaftig reply to the small-plate movement of the last few years. Or consider it a culinary treat for chefs like David Katz, the owner of Mémé, who believe that larger-sized cuts of meat offer the cook more possibilities for infusing flavor than the usual tiny fillet.

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Katz certainly makes his case in the "for two" portion of his bistro menu. He transforms a whole chicken into a platter of near poultry perfection, poaching the breasts sous-vide with foie gras and herbs, roasting the legs in duck fat, and distilling the carcasses down to an aromatic brown jus kissed with Madeira. With roasted shiitake caps and a crock of onion grits on the side, it's a hearty meal for two at $38. His $40 pork chop, meanwhile, a three-inch slab of heirloom Kurobuta pig slow-roasted on the bones beneath a crust of fennel and mustard seeds, is one of the most memorable chops in town.

Sharing is nothing new to lovers of raw shellfish; an entire evening can be spent roaming the icy tiers of a multilevel seafood plateau. It's even better, though, during the daily happy hour (5 to 7 p.m.) in the sexy bar at XIX atop the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue.

The cocktails are half price and the 19th-floor views are particularly inspiring at pink sunset with one of the city's best raw bars in full-shuck mode. Settle into one of the plush leather seats beside the fireplace for a $20 platter of assorted seafood (raw oysters and clams, curried Tasmanian crab salad, mussels, shrimp, and a giant poached diver scallop), or gild it with a dozen different oysters ($28) ranging from local stars like Cape May Salts to less frequently seen Lucky Limes from Prince Edward Island or sweet Potters Moons from Rhode Island.

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