At Argan, build-your-own sandwiches, Moroccan style

It's a little hard to find and you have to have good knees to get down the steps below street level, but the aroma that greets you at Argan Moroccan Cuisine on 17th and Sansom is worth the effort. Owner Mounir Draissi showcases the flavors of his native country and the healthy Mediterranean flavors of the region.

Argan is named after an unusual tree that grows only in southern Morocco. Draissi chose that name because he wanted his restaurant to be unique. One day he hopes to serve the special, but expensive, oil that comes from the Argan tree.

For now, he's starting slow with a menu that offers seven sandwiches ($6.99) and two salads ($7.99). Personally, I'd skip the salads - there's a Nicoise and a Beet with goat cheese. No doubt they both are delicious, but when in Morocco . . .

You can't go wrong with these Middle Eastern meats and vegetable spread pockets.

Argan sandwiches are made primarily from Mediterranean ingredients and the concept is Build-Your-Own Sandwich. Each includes a meat or a vegetarian spread with three choices of vegetable toppings and mixed greens.

But, before we get to the stuffings, let's talk about the bread.

Ah, the bread. This isn't pita, nor is it truly a flatbread even though Draissi calls it a Moroccan flatbread. These rounds are like a cross between sourdough and corn bread. They are made in-house and get their fluffy body from three risings of the yeast. The semolina adds a crunchy texture as well as fiber for those counting daily nutrients.

Unlike pita pockets that make for difficult eating because they usually fall apart when stuffed, these bread rounds are perfect containers for the fillings. Alternatively, they rip into perfect dippers for the side spreads.

Draissi uses only free range Halal meats, which means the animal is slaughtered and processed in accordance with Islamic law. Like Kosher meats, this method is considered to produce a product that is tender and fresh-tasting.

My favorite was the Slow Cooked Lamb. This was really, really tender lamb that carried the subtle blend of seasonings. It paired naturally with the white bean option add-on. And, the bread just soaked up the juices so that each bite was the perfect mix of juice, meat and seasonings.

Also high with the taster-raters were the Moroccan Meatballs. It might have looked Italian, but the seasonings would have you in Casablanca. It paired well with the addition of roasted peppers and onion.