Cold weather and hot cheese go together, so it's no wonder I've been craving fondue, molten-lidded French onion soups, and grilled cheese sandwiches. But what exactly to melt? Mozzarella can be too bland; aged cheddar too sharp. Even a big Gruyere can show too much swagger. That's why Comte, a more understated member of the Gruyere clan, is the perfect choice.
Made in the Jura mountains of France, Comte is a firm raw-milk cheese with a mountain tang, but with a softer side, too, and overtones of nuts and a fruity finish. As with all artisan cheeses, there are distinctive quality tiers – determined in part by age. This simple "Fromi" is a good basic - at $14.99 a pound just right for melting. Far more complex is the "Essex Selection" from Marcel Petite Fort Saint-Antoine. It's twice the Fromi's age (18 months old and sparking with flavor crystals), has the hints of rich summer mountain milk, and also happens to be twice the Fromi's price, at $29.99 a pound. I'm thrilled to eat it cubed, no heat added. But, for a winter lunch worth looking forward to - this classy Comte also makes one heck of a grilled cheese.