Tasting celebrity wines, from satisfying to swill

Vanity wines have become as essential as a nine iron to the golfer's portfolio, thanks to Greg Norman's success. Actors and DJs have gotten into self-labeled vino, too, as have hockey legends and major-league sluggers who are corking juice for their favorite causes.

But are they drinkable? After a 16-bottle tasting, I found a few pleasant surprises. But mostly, lets hope these celebu-vintners keep their day jobs:

The nice surprises

Greg Norman 2003 Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (exclusively at Morton's steak houses, $15.95 a glass): I find Norman's less-expensive California series boring and generic, but this premium bottle from his Australian reserve cellar reminds why the Shark was so successful to begin with. This cab delivers a long drive of bold, dark Aussie fruit, with licorice and cedar spice and the depth of a serious wine.

Chaddsford Pierre Noir, $16.99: DJ Pierre Robert actually helped stomp the grapes, and vintner Eric Lee turned them into a rarity - drinkable Pennsylvania pinot! It's strawberry light in color, but lively and confident, with good, bright fruit, an earthy pepper and cinnamon-clovey spice, and a likability that reminds of Robert himself. Available only at Chaddsford outlets or online after April 3.

Andretti Napa Cabernet 2006, $24.99: Pennsylvania's famed speedster delivers a cabernet with tight tannic handling, plush blackberry fruit, and a classic Napa sleekness that can only be called racy.

Sofia Blanc de Blancs 2007, $19.99: Nothing gets lost in translation with this simple Coppola sparkler. It offers a sweet kiss of honeysuckle that's well-balanced with a pithy lemon finish that keeps it from being cloying.

Cable mobsters compete

There's a rivalry going on inside TV's favorite mob family, and it's playing out in local wine stores, with the Sopranos "Family Made" Wines jockeying against bottles from Lorraine Bracco, who played Tony Soprano's psychiatrist on the HBO series.

None of them has much "ba-da-bing!"- especially our bottle of Bracco's 2006 Chianti Classico ($19.99), which exhibited a mustiness and a woody, Old-World gruffness. Bracco's nearly tasteless pinot grigio ($10.99) didn't impress, either. For the price, the Sopranos Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 ($9.99), with its deep black-cherry fruit and enamel-peeling tannins, would be just fine for a spicy spaghetti dinner at Vesuvio's.

Swill for good causes