While you are perusing Chifa's menu you'll be treated to puffy fried cheese rolls with spicy guava butter. You'll need the sustenance to pick and choose in nine categories as well as some specials. If choice is too overwhelming, a $65 tasting menu picks a rotating monthly sampling of 10 dishes that includes a dessert.
The ceviches are an ideal place to start. They are divided into tiraditos (a Peruvian version that is thinly sliced raw fish) and mixtos (commonly found in Peru and Ecuador, they can contain fish, but are mainly prepared with shellfish).
The Hiramasa ($10) was the more recognizable ceviche style, but much more complex with aromatic ginger and strips of what we were told was sweet potato.
The Peruvian ($9) featured corvina fish, and was a fine example of how Garces composes textures in a substantial way. The side of corn nuts were a great bar snack contrast to the sweet, delicate fish.
The Duck Ceviche ($12) was another example of Garces' style. When the waitress described it as duck confit with cherry puree and toasted brioche, we thought, "OK, now he is going too far with the play on ingredients."
But not so, the flavors and textures were in perfect balance.
According to Garces the Chicken Wings ($9) took 16 trials to elevate this bar food to the tender chicken bites that were stuffed and basted in a true Cantonese flavored glaze of sesame oil, chile, soy and lime. It was worth the effort.
In the Dim Sum category we raved about the Pork Belly Buns ($8). These were perfectly steamed and tender buns stuffed with hoisin-flavored pork belly.
The Duck Noodles ($11) displayed an amazing dried mushroom earthiness and the broth was perfumed and clean in flavor. Tender slices of mid-rare Muscovy duck breast garnished the top.
