Making do, '40s style

A museum, old cookbooks, and our own readers share how thrift and creativity filled home-front bellies during World War II.

March 19, 2009|By Dianna Marder, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Ration books were just as important as cookbooks. Better Meals in Wartime guided homemakers in making the most of ration points.
  • Ration books were just as important as cookbooks. Better Meals in Wartime guided homemakers in making the most of ration points. (Tony Fitts )
  • Buttermilk pie by Lari Robling, producer of A Chefs Table on WHYY TV12; her 2003 cookbook Endangered Recipes is coming out in paperback next month.
  • Baked Bean Croquettes

When the United States entered World War II, the country's kitchens became ground zero for the war effort on the home front.

Sugar, cheese, coffee, and meat went to the front lines, and at home, rationing reigned. From about 1942 through 1946, stamps, coupon books, and red, blue, or green tokens were allocated to each individual based on age, height, and weight according to an intricate point system developed by the new government Office of Price Administration.

We can, if it comforts us, look back on those times as the difficult days and imagine that today the economy's impact on the kitchen cupboard is less severe.

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But in our own tough times, when home cooking matters more than ever, the National World War II Museum in New Orleans suggests taking a page from our mothers and grandmothers' cookbooks, from the days of backyard victory gardens where fresh and local produce was grown for survival.

In preparation for an online exhibit, "Kitchen Memories," the museum recently put out a call for memories and memorabilia. We passed the word along, and readers in their 80s and 90s (bless their souls) took on the challenge, resurrecting ration coupons, cookbooks, and canning instructions (which we will forward to the museum).

Consider which Depression-era and wartime dishes endured, says Lari Robling, whose 2003 cookbook Endangered Recipes will be released in paperback next month (Stewart, Tabori & Chang Publishers).

We don't have to resurrect recipes for tomato soup, tuna casseroles, or meat loaf, Robling says, because we never stopped making them. These inexpensive meals still symbolize comfort, safety, peace of mind. They are the essence of home.

Many readers said they looked back fondly even at Victory Stew and War Cake. They're proud of their mothers' thriftiness and creativity. And humbled to think of a nation scrimping in union for what was perceived to be a just war.

Dorothy L. Thomas, who grew up in Haddon Heights, remembers her father had plenty of time to tend his victory garden after his work hours were cut. Homegrown corn and apples became corn fritters and apple dumplings for dinner.

"Yes, we were forced to eat 100 percent from our own yard," says Thomas, "but we never went hungry."

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