A la Maison

On the whole, restaurant chef Maurice deRamus doesn't mess too much with what works. I could have used a bit less of the mustard butter sauce slathered on the sirloin steak, but there was no denying the quality of the meat. Likewise, a trout special was all about the pristine fillets, perfectly crisped skin-on over fingerling potatoes and a light white wine sauce. I'm rarely excited by the obligatory salmon dish, but A la Maison's was perfectly done, the well-seared fish posed over velvety mashed potatoes and spinach in a tangy Champagne butter.

The duck breast was a little rare for medium rare (try it medium instead), but it was otherwise a smart composition, with silky celery-root puree and a cherry-port gravy that avoided the pitfall of being too sweet.

Where this kitchen occasionally fell short of its potential, however, was in the slow-cooked bistro dishes that require a deft hand to build and focus flavors. The stewing canon of Burgundy - coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon (this version with hefty short rib) - appeared here with all the proper essential flavors (wine, bacon, caramelized onions), but were too thin, lacking the intensity, thickness, and tenderness of a fully marinated and expertly braised dish. The Friday night bouillabaisse special, too, brought a satisfying medley of well-cooked seafood in broth perfumed with saffron and Pernod, but the actual flavor was pale.

Similarly, the duck confit had all the right textures, crispy outside and tender from its slow-steep in molten duck fat. But a timid hand on the preliminary herb- and salt-curing left the leg meat overly bland next to the tangy frisee salad.

Finesse is not quite yet a hallmark of the desserts, either. A la Maison proved with its squishy profiteroles that choux pastry doesn't fare well if made too far in advance. Also, why trouble with making crêpes only to bury them beneath a pile of out-of-season berries? And don't even get me started on how such a beautiful espresso machine, a vintage-style copper Elektra, could produce overdrawn, sour coffee. (I'm singing the "Bad Barista Blues". . . .)

For those disappointments, though, the kitchen replied with some solid bets. There was a delightful lemon tart with tangy, meringue-topped curd in a perfect pastry crust. And the crock of pot de crème filled with rich Callebaut chocolate custard was a truly irresistible pudding for grown-ups. And at last, on my final visit, I even savored a decent short espresso.

Of course, such simple pleasures have become commonplace downtown during Philly's current bistro Belle Époque. But for those craving a taste of France en banlieue (the 'burbs, that is), knowing A la Maison is frying the frites close to home is certainly far better than "bof!"

Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews Han Dynasty in Royersford.

Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.