Restuarants' gardens grow their own ... Heavenly herbs & veggies

May 07, 2009|By BETH D'ADDONO, For the Daily News
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  • Dill (above) and other herbs (right) from Stern's restaurant garden.
  • Dill (above) and other herbs (right) from Stern's restaurant garden.

ASK ANY kitchen gardener: The best thing about cultivating a plot of veggies and herbs is being able to walk out the back door and pick something for dinner.

If that gardener just happens to be a chef, the produce-to-plate proposition gets even tastier.

"It's nice to go outside, pick an heirloom tomato for a salad and serve it to a guest while it's still growing," said Chris Beall, executive chef at Lambertville Station restaurant, in Lambertville, N.J.

Beall and his kitchen staff work a 300-square-foot garden located just out the back kitchen door. Thriving with some 300 plants representing 25 varieties of herbs such as sorrel, mint and lavender, the restaurant's garden also includes a section devoted to tomatoes and melons.

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Beall incorporates fresh herbs in a variety of dishes, best enjoyed on the restaurant's outdoor deck overlooking the Delaware and Raritan Canal. And they also show up in cocktails, most notably mojitos flavored with hybrid mints like orange and cherry. Chef Beall also uses mint, along with basil, almonds and mint jelly, for sweetness, in an almond mint pesto, an ideal accompaniment to rack of lamb and other grilled meats.

"We'd been doing a rosemary Dijon crust, which I found overwhelmed the delicate flavor of the lamb a bit," he said. "This sauce, which we serve on the side, just pops with flavor."

While some herbs, like sage and rosemary, come back every year, last winter's deep freeze wreaked havoc on Beall's rosemary plants. Not wanting the fragrant remains to go to waste, he took all the clippings and plans to mix them with mesquite wood chips to add a dose of Mediterranean flavor to his house-smoked pork.

Something as simple as an herb butter, created from any kind of snipped herb incorporated into softened butter, can dress up a table and add flavor to simply prepared fish and meats, Beall added.

Snag one of the 24 seats in the back garden at Gayle's restaurant, and you'll see herbs everywhere, growing in pots, planter boxes and as the centerpiece for each table. Chef/owner Daniel Stern grows heirloom herbs, including cilantro, basil, mint, lavender, rosemary, caraway and dill, along with some assorted hot peppers and tomatoes at the South 3rd Street restaurant.

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