Calmels is keeping the menu tight, befitting the size of the dining room and kitchen (though he does his own baking and butchering). The opening menu's starters included a rabbit terrine, a soup, escargots, a smoked-salmon salad, foie gras, and a warm potato and goat cheese tatin.
And there were but five entrees: braised pig's feet ($25) stuffed with foie gras; seared scallop ($20); hanger steak with shallot and red wine sauce ($26); skate ($19); and duck magret Tournedos-style ($23). There's a decent cheese plate, too.
It's open Wednesdays though Sundays for dinner. Sunday's dinner, a prix-fixe $45, includes three courses plus amuse-bouche.
What's new
Chef Chip Roman has opened
Blackfish's new operation in Stone Harbor (9628 Third Ave., 609-967-9100), the Jersey Shore sibling to the original in Conshohocken. The 200-seater, with a 75-seat bar, used to be Henny's. It's open for lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Starters are $10 to $19, entrees $28 to $39, desserts $7 to $12. This Blackfish won't be permanent. He and partner John Sprandio will start construction on a "green" hotel across the street. Blackfish will move into the hotel when it is completed in February 2011. Roman's Shore operation previously was in Avalon.