On a lesser magnitude of ambition (but no less satisfying) was a thrilling encounter with chicken that wasn't a boneless breast: an entree of apricot-glazed thighs, tenderly braised and served over Israeli couscous with tart cucumber-chive chutney.
Even more surprising, though, was the unanimous admiration for the chef's clever vegan creation, the noodlelike shreds of zucchini "spaghetti" tossed in basil coulis with nutty crumbles of tempeh. Between the al dente snap of squash threads, the roasty pop of grilled cherry tomatoes, and the surprising savor of the crumbled tempeh (a fermented soy that reminded us of sagey stovetop stuffing), every skeptical carnivore at the table declared they would happily eat it again with a blindfold on.
Paraskevas lends the same creative touches to dessert, with some novel twists on creme brulee (with a burnt espresso crust), and cheesecake (peanut-butter-infused with blackberry sauce). He left a couple of good ideas high and dry. The spiced carrot cake and Rolo-studded bread pudding were parchingly dry. But a topping fluff of homemade mint marshmallows and blueberry jubilee salvaged the cliche of yet another flourless chocolate cake.
No, Slate is already far from being a cliche - even if it's still a work in progress. Figuring out exactly what it is remains a question, but it may never quite fit an easy niche. Simply watching this tabula rasa fill in the blanks with an appreciative neighborhood crowd is already a promising place to start.
Next Sunday, restaurant critic Craig LaBan reviews Chifa near Washington Square. Contact him at claban@phillynews.com.
