Table Talk: Continuing their move east along Spruce

Chef R. Evan Turney and restaurateurs George and Valerie Anni keep edging east along Spruce Street in Washington Square West. As a follow-up to their Valanni (1229 Spruce) and Mercato (1216 Spruce), they just opened Varga Bar on the corner of 10th and Spruce (941 Spruce St., 215-627-5200).

Varga Bar, with a retro-inspired, comfort-food pub menu, replaces the short-lived Azul Cantina. Decor, including a ceiling mural of World War II-style pinups, black-and-white tile floor, and beveled glass, was inspired by Alberto Vargas, the illustrator.

An all-American beer list has 22 on tap. Turney's menu includes appetizers such as tomato soup, Kobe beef sliders, and mac and cheese. There's a cheese board, too. Five entrees on the working menu included rigatoni with meatballs ($15) and steak and fries (the priciest dish, at $22). For now, it's open for dinner daily; lunch will start in mid-June.

Who's this Zama?

The rollout of Zama is aimed at early fall.

Tanaka, 38, came to the United States 19 years ago as a transfer student from Temple University's Tokyo campus. "First time on an airplane," he says. Then he fell into the restaurant crowd with stints at Genji, the Ritz-Carlton, and Sonoma. "Philadelphia fit me," he says.

Tanaka, executive sushi chef at Pod when it opened, helps out at Morimoto. Zama will feature his signature sushi and simple, seasonal Japanese dishes at moderate prices. "The reputation of Japanese food [in the United States] is very bad right now," Zama says, decrying the preponderance of "teriyaki, tempura, hibachi, and instant items."

Hornik, who owns the building, says Zama is a "better use for the space."

Hornik is hoping for a mid-August opening of Duo, the pizzeria/bar he's opening with partner Mark Fichera at 39th and Chestnut Streets.

What's coming