Then again, nothing soothes the ill-seated diner quite like a well-wrought dessert. And pastry chef Ann Giles delivers some real jewels, including what is essentially a deconstructed hazelnut mochachino that layers icy espresso granità and chocolate ganache beneath a free-form Chihuly-like hazelnut tuile that cradles sweet-cream ice cream. Add the tropical passion fruit parfait with basil seeds and young coconut noodles, or the exotic green-tea confection of matcha-mascarpone layer cake, or the pure comfort of homemade root-beer float rising tableside in a sarsaparilla-scented eruption of frothing rice-pudding ice cream, and Chifa has every far-flung indulgence covered.
Chifa, a Chino-Latino blend
It continues the evolution of Asian fusion, begun 20 years ago by Susanna Foo.
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With so many disparate flavors in one place, Garces' fusion vision for Chifa doesn't yet have the elegant clarity of Foo's before him (not to mention his other restaurants). But through the sheer force of Garces' gastronomic horsepower and genius, dinner here is an undeniably exciting adventure.
Next Sunday, restaurant critic Craig LaBan reviews Sauté in Queen Village.
Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.
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