Bleeding over tradition

Knifework, Veal Olives, and Chef Staib at the nexus of colonial cookery and TV.

May 28, 2009|By Rick Nichols, Inquirer Columnist
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  • Walter Staib, the chef at City Tavern, prepares to cut an inside round from a leg of veal. He was cooking for a segment of his "A Taste of History" public television series.
  • Walter Staib, the chef at City Tavern, prepares to cut an inside round from a leg of veal. He was cooking for a segment of his "A Taste of History" public television series.
  • Chef Walter Staib, above, checks on Veal Olives as it cooks overa fire, using a technique about 300 years old. True to tradition, he used goose fat instead of butter. At right, the product of his labor is displayed in a skillet.
  • "The City Tavern Cookbook," written by Walter Staib with Paul Bauer.

Things got off to a mildly alarming start along Paper Mill Run one morning last week; Walter Staib inadvertently added blood to the copious sweat he was giving to the production of his A Taste of History public television series.

Paper Mill Run is the didactically named tributary of Wissahickon Creek along which still stand the structures of RittenhouseTown, where the colonies' first paper mill was erected in 1690, currently the lower reaches of Mount Airy.

It was in its original bake house, dating to about 30 years later, that Staib, the bearish chef-owner of Old City's historic City Tavern, was demonstrating cookery, circa 300 years ago: "You didn't just go in the kitchen," he noted, "and turn a knob."

Story continues below.

Indeed not. You built a fire of hardwood (in this case, apple, maple, and oak) first. And there it was, blazing down to fiery coals in the bake house's 15-foot-long hearth. Then with various long-handled rakes and tongs, hooks and Dutch ovens, you redistributed the heat.

Things went smoothly in Episode I. Staib knocked out a rabbit stew with spaetzle - "a tribute to the Germans [such as the Rittenhouse clan, nee Rittenhausen] who came here," birthing water-powered industry and bequeathing their name, later, to the city's most elegant square.

But toward noon, Episode II - the intricate assemblage of a dish called Veal Olives - got off to an inauspicious start. The fire was roaring just behind Staib, probably at 850 degrees at its center. Sweat beaded on his forehead, dabbed at repeatedly by a production assistant.

He was instructed by producer Jim Davey to look down at the massive, 53-pound leg of veal he was beginning to butcher with a surgically sharp boning knife. And then to look up at Camera 1. No, Camera 2.

The eye and hand lost coordination momentarily. But the tip of the knife continued its course, stabbing under the nail of Staib's left thumb.

History TV was suddenly Reality TV, a bright, red trickle of blood running down the chef's hand.

But as Staib likes to point out, he is a stoic man of the Black Forest. And as he pressed a cloth to the wound and a hunt for Band-Aids was launched, he rinsed the thumb off and sealed the cut smartly with a dab of Krazy Glue.

The show, as it must, went on.

Veal Olives does not, in the end, involve olives at all.

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