Or, had co-owner Hector Torres and his chef, Nicholas Cassidy, really wanted to tap a foodie nerve with some of the techniques going on in this surprising kitchen, "Pressure" (for the sous-vide watermelon with feta salad) or "Grind" (for the house-made charcuterie) might have had a catchier ring.
A smart name, however, is never a replacement for simply delivering a great dining experience. And after a couple of intriguing meals, this ambitious newcomer clearly shows the promise (its few rough edges not withstanding) to become another bright addition to our ever-growing repertoire of sophisticated BYOBs.
First-time owner Torres, 35, a front-of-the-house veteran at Roy's (both in New York and Center City), has done a fine job transforming this space with his business partner, landlord Nikki Kaufman. The off-the-grid taproom of La Creole, known for its cheap beer and wings, has gone upscale with a chocolate-brown look that actually conjures some date-night romance and culinary ambition, as couples indulge in four-course tastings ranging from halibut cheeks to foie gras pancakes. They've kept the ornately carved wooden back bar and mirrors along one wall, added warm earth-tone accents, a cushy banquette and billowy curtains, paddle fans and palms for an ambience that is a bit more elegant and upscale than your typical BYO.
Saute's biggest draw, though, is the debut of talented young Cassidy. This 26-year-old began working the line at family-style restaurants in Harrisburg at age 14, studied at Le Cordon Bleu in Pittsburgh, and eventually found his way to Philly, where he landed a sous-chef job at Alma de Cuba.
Like many a young chef, Cassidy is enamored of the creative freedoms and techniques of New American cooking and its lions, poring over texts from Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller, and Tom Colicchio, whose book Cassidy adores: "I slept with Craft of Cooking under my pillow."
