Saute

Cassidy's youthful zeal was usually productive, but it also led to a number of ill-cast plates that were a tweak or two shy of success. A deep-seated love of duck fat gave his side of fingerling potatoes an extra gilding of richness ("Quack"), but a heavy hand with salt made them nearly inedible (and as mentioned, "Salt" has been done). I loved the flavors of his escargot and artichoke fonduta ravioli, but the presentation of snails atop the single giant raviolo, which covered the plate bottom like a squishy pillow, made for awkward eating.

He also overthought the sweet-tart strawberry-rhubarb compote and creamy cauliflower puree garnishes that came with the scallop entree when he should have focused more on simply giving diners a more satisfying value than four smallish scallops for $23. Similarly, the pairing of chorizo- and mushroom-studded white beans with sweetbreads was fantastic. I just wish there had been more than a single nugget of the crispy gland. ("Gland"? Not even going there.)

With menu prices that land slightly higher than most BYOs, Saute seems to be struggling to find a consistently acceptable portion. On my first visit, the crisply seared branzino fillet was plump and succulent over broccoli rabe and a smear of artichoke fondue. By my second visit, that single fillet ($22.50) had been zapped with a shrink-ray. ("Zap"!)

In terms of pure value, Saute's four-course midweek tasting menu for $35 might be your best bet, as the kitchen dips into special ingredients, from turbot to squab, for adventurous diners. On the other hand, judging from the couple beside us, who accidentally received the dessert course third instead of as the finale, I'm not sure the green service staff here is quite yet up to such elaborate orchestrations.

But before anyone leaps to any snide new name suggestions (like "Oops"), it's important to note that Saute does far more right than not. It's a lovely reincarnation for this once-overlooked space. There's an ambitious new talent in the kitchen. And even if there are a few rough edges, these are somewhat typical for a new BYO.

When they're as promising as Saute, we can never have enough, whatever they are called. I call them "Welcome."

Contact Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.