But if we need to retain one holdout for old-school decorum, it might as well be the Fountain Restaurant at the Four Seasons. The luxury landmark underwent a major transition this year when longtime executive chef Martin Hamann left for the Union League, ceding the top toque to an out-of-towner, Rafael Gonzalez.
Some might have fretted that this was the beginning of the end for Philly's palace of posh. But, thankfully, that's hardly been the case. In fact, my recent meals were so spectacular, I'd look forward to another dinner there even if the Fountain required straitjackets and gravity boots.
No doubt veteran Fountain waiters like Jim Miller and Vincent Russo could handle that awkward situation with their usual seamless, silver-spooned aplomb. And from whatever angle you regard these artfully crafted plates, there's no mistaking their stunning beauty.
A fan of amazingly tender grill-marked rabbit loin spreads beside a majestic pyramid of pasta filled with juicy braised leg meat and leeks. A tempura-fried squash blossom on top was so lightly crisped it practically hovered above the dish. A slider of ground venison and foie gras with melted cippolini onions and a sunny-side-up quail egg ratcheted the gourmet burger wars to new heights. And I'm still dreaming of the amuse-bouche morsel that opened my second visit, a creamy pillar of white grits studded with pancetta, sweet corn kernels, and shaved truffle. Inside the bubble of unbridled gastro-indulgence that persists within the Fountain's richly wood-paneled walls, even the pre-meal freebies are master productions.
Geez, even the city tap water here is noticeably more crisp than usual: "It's triple-filtered!" Russo beamed.
