Refueling en route to the Shore

The pastrami cheesesteak at Mr. Bill's Coney Island in Hammonton, N.J.
The pastrami cheesesteak at Mr. Bill's Coney Island in Hammonton, N.J. (Tony Fitts)
Posted: June 25, 2009

"How much longer till we get there? I'm hungry!"

It's a backseat refrain my kids have perfected - even on the relatively short trip to the Shore. It's a good thing that Mr. Bill's, the classic custard stand and deli grill with the three-story-high huckster statue out front (and sandwiches nearly as tall), is perched halfway to Atlantic City. This Winslow landmark has seen a half-dozen owners in its half-century, but found its latest groove under the previous steward, deli-master Russ Cowan, who passed it on to current owner Joe Radano two years ago. Radano has diligently maintained the Cowan formula of super-sized portions and old-school scratch cooking, from the huge hot reubens and football-sized eclairs to soft-serve made from real custard. But Radano has also given the menu his own twist with a foot-long cheesesteak made from griddled pastrami, onions and provolone that is inspired Italo-Jewish deli fusion. It's also a surefire peacemaker for the rest of the trip.

- Craig LaBan

The pastrami cheesesteak is $11.25 at Mr. Bill's, 453 Rte. 73 S. (A.C. Expressway, Exit 33), Winslow, 609-561-5400.

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