It is not the first eatery to reach for the deviled egg, of course: Jones has long had a rendition. A few bars have recently put them on the menu.
But Supper, at 10th and South, may be the first to go whole hog - to gussy the things up while still trading on their image as homey packets of simplicity and comfort.
That's a balancing act: Supper has ditched its Moroccan chicken wings for smoked wings soaked in birch beer and buttermilk. But it's not exactly going gingham and hay bale.
I dropped in on Prensky last week to check on the progress of his uptown-down-home eggs.
The deviled egg (like the chicken breast) is a blank slate. There's your homespun classic - mayo (or to my taste, Miracle Whip), vinegar and dry mustard, period.
But you don't need to step out for that: You can get that at the family picnic or block party. Still, that basic recipe - or close to it - is Prensky's launch pad: "It's the mother sauce," he says.
But first there's hard-boiling the egg, possibly the most precise part of the exercise. Supper's technique? Add the eggs to the pot. Cover with an inch of water. Bring to boil, uncovered, and keep at low boil for eight minutes. Then shock in a bowl of icy water.
But here's the ticket. Only keep in the iced water for 30 seconds or less. Then crack (and roll back and forth on the counter) and peel right away, while the shell's inner membrane is slightly separated from the white's surface.
The rest of the process is a bit more casual. For six cooked egg yolks, Prensky adds about 4 tablespoons of house-made mayonnaise (or at home 3 tablespoons of bottled mayo and 1 tablespoon of sour cream), 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a squeeze of a quarter of a lemon (a little red wine vinegar can substitute), and a dash of salt and cayenne pepper.
