You can learn to barbecue the perfect bird

When man and chicken meet at the grill, there's no guarantee the result will be a steaming platter of fall-off-the-bone barbecued bird.

Often the results are one of two disappointing scenarios: chicken that's nicely browned on the outside but still pink and rubbery inside, or chicken that's cooked so long it resembles the briquettes it was roasted over.

But with some time, patience, and a few grilling tricks, perfect barbecued chicken is only as far away as your backyard.

Chicken is one of the most affordable meats to cook, and it's even cheaper when you steer clear of boneless, skinless cuts. For the best value, look for whole chickens you can cut up yourself at home, or chicken pieces that still have their bones and skin attached. Many butchers will cut up a chicken to your specifications.

Not only will you save money by avoiding the boneless, skinless variety, you'll produce grilled chicken that's juicier, more tender and more flavorful when you grill it.

"Unfortunately, we have become this boneless, skinless chicken breast country," said Fred Thompson, a North Carolina-based food writer and author of Barbecue Nation and the newly released Grillin' With Gas (both Taunton Press).

Thompson understands that boneless breasts are handy for busy families who are trying to put a quick weeknight meal on the table. But he said home cooks have forgotten how good chicken on the bone can be.

"Chicken develops such a great flavor when it's cooked slower, on the bone, than anything you will ever do with a boneless, skinless chicken breast," Thompson said.

Cooking bone-in chicken on the grill will take about 45 to 50 minutes, compared with the 20 minutes for boneless breasts, he said.

Bone-in chicken will cook more evenly because of the way the bones will conduct heat. "It takes longer, but you get more flavor development out of it," Thompson said.

The skin provides a layer of protection to keep the meat from burning, and the fat from the skin will baste the chicken while it cooks.

For those with health concerns, Thompson suggests cooking the chicken with its skin on and then peeling it off before eating. For those opposed to bone-in meat, Burns suggests boneless skinless chicken thighs, because the dark meat is a bit fattier; they won't get as dry as boneless breasts when grilled.