Campbell's Place flirts with new flavors

June 26, 2009|By LARI ROBLING, For the Daily News
  • Prince Edward Island white mussels in a beer sauce made from Hoergartten, a Belgian draft, with leeks, blue cheese and bacon.

It has a fairy tale aspect to it . . . a waitress meets a chef at the Old City restaurant where they work. They fall in love, get married, buy a restaurant in Chestnut Hill and become pregnant.

Vanessa and Rob Mullen have been living this fairy tale since they took over Campbell's Place last November. But the restaurant was already associated with a beloved couple, Mary and the late Jim Campbell. So how do you make this story - and restaurant - your own?

"It's definitely a fine line," Vanessa Mullen aknowledged.

She works the front of the house, sporting a baby bump, and he's the chef. "We wanted to softly change things like updating the decor and making the menu more American bistro," Vanessa said. But they didn't want to remove everything that makes it Campbell's.

To that end, the couple kept items like the meatloaf dinner on the regular menu and will run specials of old favorites such as the chicken Parmesan.

Everything is made in-house, except the ranch dressing, and there is a commitment to buying fresh local produce.

Nice new additions to the menu are the salads.

I particularly enjoyed the Arugula Salad with goat cheese and beets ($8.50). The texture of the soft cheese contrasted with crunchy sunflower seeds while the sweetness of the beets was a foil against the peppery arugula. It worked very well with one of the house-made dressings that had just a hint of lemon to it.

My only wish was to have the goat cheese dispersed more evenly.

The House Salad ($5.50) was beautifully composed with cherry tomatoes, lettuces, cucumber slices and carrots. We paired it with the house-made strawberry dressing that created a nice balance of sweet fruit and acidity.

A big miss was the Crab Cake Appetizer ($11.50). Our portion was a tiny, flat cake made with too much binder and not enough crab. Plus, the accompanying jicama salad was too watery.

The Tuna Burger ($12) is a nice option for pescatarians (hey, don't be a contrarian, it's a real term for a vegetarian who eats fish!) It was a generous piece of fish, cooked rare to order and served on a whole-wheat bun that comes from a local bakery. Subtle Asian flavors paired well. I'm feeling healthy just thinking about it.

At $14.50 the Fish and Chips were on the pricey side. Also, we had to ask for malt vinegar, which to me is like serving a peanut butter and jelly sandwich without the jelly.

While the fries were just passable, the fish was nicely coated with batter for a crisp crunch surrounding firm flesh.

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