If you've had the pleasure of meeting the Vietnamese hoagie, may we introduce you to another strange-but-true hybrid - the Korean taco. It was born on a roving lunch truck in Los Angeles. But it made landfall in Queen Village a few months ago at Ansill, where a Korean-American cook does an astonishingly good version. The meat is a beefy shred of braised short rib and London broil, marinated in soy, sesame oil, garlic, scallion, and honey, then stuffed into a warm, crisped flour tortilla, drizzled with barbecue sauce, and topped with brightly crunchy daikon radish kim chi.
- Rick Nichols